General Information
Known Issues
Engine
Fuel / Intake
Exhaust
Controls
Electrical System
Body
Brakes
Final Drive
Wheels/Tires
Suspension
Maintenance
Off-Road Gear
Highway Gear
Links
Need an answer? Join and ask the DSN
KLR650 group
Maintenance procedure repository: Mark
St. Hilaire's site
Emergency parts/accessories, shipped worldwide:
Fred Hink/Arrowhead
Motorsports
435-259-7356
Moab, UT USA
Reference downloads:
KwikSpecs Front
KwikSpecs Rear
Wiring Diagram.gif
Wiring Diagram.jpg
Fan circuit.jpg
printing instructions.txt
Dsclaimer: This material is provided for reference only.
All information is accurate to the best of my knowledge, but you are ultimately
responsible for all mainenance of and modifications to your motorcycle.
Big Cee and/or myself is not responsible for any damage that occurs as
a result of use or misuse of this information.
How has the KLR650 changed over the years?
What year is my KLR?
The frame sticker shows the date of manufacture. The model year for
all cars and bikes sold in the US is indicated by the tenth digit of the
VIN (this is an ISO standard, and is becoming more widely used).
M=1991; N=1992; P=1993; R=1994; S=1995; T=1996; V=1997; W=1998; X=1999;
Y=2000; 1=2001; 2=2002...A=2010...
How do I contact Kawasaki?
Consumer Relations, Kawasaki Motors Corp., USA, P.O. Box 25252, Santa
Ana, CA 92799-5252; (949) 460-5688. In Canada, it's Canadian Kawasaki
Motors, 25 Lesmill Rd, Toronto, Ontario M3B 2T3.
Will AAA tow my bike?
For AAA bike towing, you need to add RV coverage, not the "plus"
coverage. There is also a question of wether or not they will do
this in all states. AAA will also tow bikes as part of their motorcycle
insurance policies (be sure yours includes it). Other options are
AMA MoTow service, and MTS Towing [links].
Fuel capacity
The actual stock fuel capacity is around 5.6-5.7 gallons. Older
resources did list 5.7 gallons, but newer ones claim 6.1.
Bike stalls in the rain/deep water crossings
This is generally caused by submersion of the carbeurator vent line.
This is a clear/transparent pink hose running from the side of the
carb down to the bottom of the bike. If this gets clogged, the carb will
fail to operate properly and the engine will quit. The best solution
is known as the "T-mod:" install a tee in this line near the carb.
Route the original line the way it was, and route a second line up under
the seat or behind the fairing.
Starter circuit fails to work, or only works with in neutral with
clutch out.
Engine runs in neutral, but dies when I put it in gear.
There are two known causes for this. First, the side stand switch
can corrode and sieze up or get bad contacts. It is best to bypass
this switch before it goes bad and leaves you stranded in the wild.
To do so, simply disconnect the connector at the switch (under the small,
black plastic cover), and short the harness wires together (brown and green/white)
with a jumper. The second part is the clutch safety switch at the
clutch lever, which tends to fall out of adjustment. To bypass, disconnect
the plug from the clutch switch underneath the cover on the back of the
instrument panel. Short the black/yellow and blue/red wires on the
main harness with a jumper. In both cases, the switches can be reactivated
by removing the jumpers and plugging the connectors back in.
Headlight fuse tends to blow
If the headlight switch pauses between "hi" and "lo," it is possible
for both filaments to be on at the same time. This will overload
the 10A fuse. This can be fixed by upgrading the fuse to 15A.
Gas in the right side of the tank
Because of the gas tank design, even if you run dry on reserve, there
will still be gas in the right side of the tank. To get at this gas
in an emergency, tilt the bike over to the left as far as possible, and
start riding again. You may be able to repeat this process a few
times.
Rear hub bearing spacer
When doing rear wheel maintenance, people often lose the middle bearing
spacer. It generally stays in place due to grease, and you may pull
the hub off several times without ever noticing it. If it happens
to fall out, though, you will soon wreck the hub. Click here
for a diagram of the rear hub; # 42036 is the one you need to watch out
for. It goes in the inside of the sprocket carrier. Pay careful
attention to how many threads on the axle are showing above the axle
nut, before you loosen it. When you reinstall the wheel, if you see noticeably
more threads, something's wrong. (Or, if you bottom the nut and the
wheel still isn't tight.)
What type of oil should I use?
How much oil should I put in?
If you don't want motorcycle-specific, Castrol GTX, Delvac 1300, Rotella
T and Mobil 1 have worked well. You generally want to avoid 5W oils
and some manufacturers' 10W-30 oils. If it doesn't say
"Energy Conserving II" around the rim of the API seal on the bottle, it
should be fine.
The rated capacity is 2.5 liters, which should put the oil at the top of the sight glass. However, this usually puts the level over the top, possibly due to residual oil in the passageways. KHI engineers insist that the sight glass is in the correct location. Paying attention to your oil level and keeping it at the top of the glass is probably the best compromise.
Which oil filters fit?
Fram #CH6070
EMGO #10-30000
K&N #KN-123
Wix #24951
NAPA #4951
The Wix, Napa and Fram filters come with new O-rings, and the others
do not. There is also a lifetime stainless steel filter available,
which you clean at each oil change.
Oil drain plug
The oil plug thread is M12 x 1.50. Replacements:
Moose p/n M0103
Honda p/n 92800-12000
Greenline 73000H-12
Valve shim alternatives
KLR valve shims are 29mm in diameter. If your Kawi dealer
doesn't have the right ones in stock, shims from an '87 BMW K75S and
'82 Yamaha Seca 750 are the same diameter. (Beware, there are also
29.5mm shims, which will not work.)
Broken cooling fan
If you drop the bike on the left side, the radiator fan shroud can
get bent and stop the fan. The motor shaft then spins in the fan,
and melts the hub. Apparently, the hub can also melt if the fan isn't
jammed. The fan can only be purchased as an assembly, which is expensive.
Muzzys makes an aluminum replacement cooling fan with a steel hub that
is immune to this damage. However, over the long term, the hub crimp
on the aluminum unit can also loosen, allowing the blades to loosen.
It is also possible to epoxy a melted plastic hub back together.
What kind of coolant can I use?
Any silicate-free antifreeze mixed with distilled water should be fine.
If you want something pre-mixed, Rotella 50/50 will work, and Honda (and
others) has a mix available at motorcycle shops. Note that, if you
live in a warm climate, you might be better off with 30% anitfreeze; water
is a better conductor of heat, and you'll still have adequate high-temp
protection.
Can I improve cooling?
You can improve airflow to the radiator by going to a low-mount fender
(up to 15 degree improvment), and by filling the gap between the radiator
and tank shroud. If you're having serious cooling problems, you may
want to check the water pump impeller shaft (it's only three bolts to take
off the water pump cover). The impeller shaft can break if the nut
is over-tightened, and a few people have removed the cover to find the
shaft already broken off.
Replacement radiator hoses
In a pinch, you should be able to cut all three hoses from a Goodyear
#63936 heater hose (which has some pre-formed bends).
Replacement radiator caps
Kawi 49085-1066
Prestone RR-27
Stant 10227
Motrad T-13R
TVS 1-227B
Gates 31333
CST 7513
Balkamp 703-4773
Why does my transmission slip out of gear?
Check to see if the shift lever is hitting the skid plate, if it is
loose on the shaft, or if the base weld is beginning to break (on the stock
unit).
Is there a cheaper slide/diaphragm assembly available?
Harley dealers carry a slide/diaphragm assembly, part number 27585-88,
for Kehin CVK40 carbs. List price is usually around $40. For
a temporary repair, Park Tool makes small, clear, flexible patches
for bicycle tubes that will do the job.
Is there a less-vulnerable choke lever available?
With the choke out on the handlebar, it's possible to break it when
you dump the bike. Lister Zach found a short choke cable for the
CVK40 from Harley Davidson: Part# 29229-88C, Cable, Carburetor Enrichment.
You need to come up with a mounting bracket.
Why is my bike running poorly?
Start with these:
Should I use hi-octane fuel?
Only if your engine pings under load. High-octane gasoline does
not contain any more energy than low-octane, and is intended to reduce
the possibility of pre-ignition and detonation, which can be a problem
with high-compression engines.
Why does my bike run for a few minutes, then stall?
Why is my exhaust running hotter?
An exhaust leak can lean out your mixture and make the exhaust hotter.
Check the header nuts for tightness, as well as the other clamps.
Also note that a loose midclamp (behind the rear brake reservoir) can vent
exhaust and melt a hole in your airbox.
Can I use a different key blank for the ignition?
If you don't want to shell out the big bucks for a Kawasaki factory
key blank, here are some alternatives that should work. Of the keys
listed below, the Silca KW14 and KW14R are the only truly correct ones.
It would probably be best to take the whole list to your key shop, and
let them pick the one that will work the best. NOTE: The KLR comes
with both right- and left-hand keys (the direction of the offset in the
cross-section). So, not every blank will work.
SILCA KW14, KW14R
ILCO KA15 X106
ILCO YH38 X77
ILCO X120 YH46
Taylor X90, X91
Curtis YM-58 (Yamaha?)
Curtis SU-9 (Suzuki)
Ford 5-cut primary blank
Why is there shimmy in my front wheel?
Try different tire pressures, and check your tire balance. Make
sure there is no twist in the forks: Support the bike on a stand,
loosen the top and bottom triple clamp bolts (don't let the fork drop out),
wiggle the handlebars to make sure the forks are free, and retighten.
Make sure your headset is tight, too. Also, the height relationship
between the front and rear suspension can affect steering stability.
If the rear is made higher (new shock, increasing preload, etc.), it may
make the steering unstable. This can be corrected by increasing preload
in the fork by adding spacer washers. Or, try to lower the fork in
the triple clamps.
What are the dimensions of the stock handlebar?
Need a new one? Here are approximate dimensions of the KLR handlebar.
Width: 810 mm
End Rise: 75 mm
Center Rise: 75 mm
Center Width: 205 mm
Pullback: 100 mm
Why has my tachometer gone all wonky?
The tachometer is electrical, and is driven off of the ignition control
box. If it starts behaving erratically, check all electrical connections
related to the ignition. If problems persist, your ignition box is
probably going bad. Cheap, it isn't. Sorry!
Why doesn't my speedometer work?
There is a washer in the front wheel hub that connects the hub to the
speedo drive gears; it has tangs on the outside and inside. It is
possible for these to break off, rendering the drive nonfunctional.
In particular, make sure you get these lined up right with the hub when
installing the front wheel. If you tighten the axle nut and the front
wheel no longer spins freely, you may have compressed the drive tangs against
the hub.
How much power does the charging system put out?
Older models: 14V, 14A @ 8000 rpm (above redline!), newer models 14V,
17A @ 7000 rpm. We are unsure as to when this change took place,
but the only part change seems to be the rotor (new p/n 21007-1283).
You may be able to upgrade your charging system by switching to the newer
rotor, but this is unconfirmed. The normal electrical load is around
9 amps for the headlight, tail and license lights, instrument lights.
(The ignition system has its own supply coil, and does not drain the main
charging circuit.)
Can I upgrade the charging system?
Electrex makes a higher output stator (#G45, make sure you're getting
the newer, thinner one) and rectifier/regulator (#RR26). (If you
upgrade the stator, you should also upgrade the R/R.) Installation
requires cutting the wires on the stock stator, and threading the new ones
through the grommet. The output of this combo is claimed to be 280
watts, but this hasn't been confirmed.
What voltage should I see at the battery?
The no-load voltage is around 12.9 V, so anything less than that while
the engine is running means that the battery is discharging.
Why won't my bike start?
Nine times out of ten, it's just a bad battery connection. Check
the wires, make sure they are securely attached to the battery (and the
screw isn't bottoming out in the slot before it reaches full tension),
and make sure the faces of the ring terminals and battery terminals are
clean. With a loose connection, it's possible for your lights to
come on when you turn on the ignition, and dim out with no starter cranking
when you hit the start button. Bad connections limit the amount of
current that the battery can supply; the starter has such a low resistance
that it will draw all of the current at the expense of other loads.
The second culprit is a bad battery. Even a relatively new battery can be bad if it was not properly charged before use or has sat for a while without charging. Sometimes, this can appear to be a short, i.e. you turn the key on, and the headlight comes on, but everything dies when you hit the starter. The voltage may slowly creep back up after you remove the load. Auto parts stores may be able to load test your battery, and see if it will hold a charge.
Will my bike explode if I jump start it from a car?
NO! This is a myth perpetuated by people who don't understand
electricity. However, the car engine should be OFF when jumping the
bike; starting a motorcycle won't put much of a dent in a car battery.
You do need to be careful, for the following reasons:
Where can I find a wiring diagram?
Go back to the top of the FAQ.
Where are the fuses?
The main and headlight fuses are in a black plastic box under the seat
and over the battery. The fan fuse is next to the coolant overflow
tank, behind the shroud on the right side.
Why is my battery running out of water?
Vented batteries typically lose water over time, via electrolysis during
recharging. In hot weather, the water level will go down faster.
However, rapid water loss in a battery can also be a sign of overcharging.
Check the voltage going to the battery to make sure your system is OK.
What replacement batteries are available?
The original battery is a Yuasa YB14L-A2, and there is a Die Hard equivalent
at Sears. WalMart also has inexpensive batteries. Yuasa also
makes a fully sealed AGM battery that is an exact replacement, the YTX14AHL-BS.
This battery comes with an acid pack that the dealer or customer activates
when putting the battery in service. WestCo also makes a sealed battery,
the 12V14L-B. For extra current and reserve capacity, there is the
Odyssey PC 545 gell cell (non-MJ version). This battery must be mounted
on its side to fit in the KLR battery box, and you will have to extend
one of the power cables. The Big Crank AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery
is another possiblity, as is the WestCo.
Can I use a brighter headlight bulb?
KLR owners often run a higher-power bulb like an 80/100W, 55/100, etc
(stock is 55/60, type 9003 H4). Your local NAPA should have the Wagner
BP1210-H4 80/100 bulb for around $13. Some people have had problems
with the headlight socket melting; the NAPA LS6235 socket (or one from
an '84 Honda Accord) is a close replacement, and is made of heat-resistant
Bakelite. Others, however, have ran these bulbs with the stock socket
and wiring with no problems. The one thing you definitely want to
do is replace the 10A headlight fuse with a 15A one.
What size are the instrument bulbs?
Turn signal and neutral lights: #24
Hi-beam and three gage illumination bulbs: #194
To change these, you don't have to remove the instrument cluster; you
just pull out the rubber "socket," and the bulb will be in it.
Are there brighter taillight bulbs?
The 1157 bulb in the taillight socket can be replaced with a 2357.
The tail light is the same, but the brake light is 25% brighter with only
a 2W power increase. The downside is that the brake light filiment
of the 2357 has a life rating of only 400 hours, while that of the 1157
is 1,200 hours. Both bulbs have a tail light rating of 5,000 hours.
There is also a halogen version, the H1157, but this can melt the taillight
housing if the brakes are on for a long time (i.e., stop/go traffic).
An excellent alternative is the LED board sold by Dual Star (made by someone
else). This is a circuit board that fills much of the lens with LEDs,
and has the option to flash the light a few times when the brakes are applied.
How do I get the seat off?
Remove the two side covers, and you will see the two bolts that hold
the seat down. After removing the bolts, pull the rear of the seat
up, and then pull the seat to the rear to unhook it from the tank.
If you don't want to have to pull the side covers off every time, you can
cut holes in the side covers over the bolts to get at them directly.
What is this rubber "hockey puck" I just found on the ground?
The front of the fuel tank is supported by two rubber bushings that
sit on posts on the frame. It is possible for these to fall off while
you are sliding the tank in place. Attaching them with a drop of
E6000 or Shoe Goo will keep them from falling off next time.
What kind of brake pads should I use?
One of the Galfer staff is a KLR owner, and recommends the following
Galfer pads: 50/50 on/offroad: Galfer green front, part FD091G1532; FD075
sintered rear. More street: Galfer blue front, FD091G1434; rear blue
FD0751434 or black FD0751052. EBC sintered pads may work a little
better than stock, but can develop an occasional squeal. If you're
looking for something cheaper, I've had very good luck with Parts Unlimited
TufStop pads (TSRP-802 front, TSRP-786, rear). They're an organic
pad that is very kind to rotors, and grab much better than sintered pads.
They only last about 4-5,000 miles, but at $23/pair, that's a pretty good
deal. Dunlopad HH pads are available, on the pricey end; SDP313MX
for the front and SDP310MX for the rear.
Do I have to pay $200 for a Kawi brake rotor?
EBC and Braking make aftermarket brake rotors for $90-120. Oversize
rotors (with caliper relocation brackets) are available from EBC, CycleBrakes
and MAP.
How can I change the sprocket ratio?
The stock final drive ratio is 15/43. The easiest way to change
the ratio is by replacing the countershaft (front) sprocket. A 14T
is great for tight off-roading, and a 16T for a lot of highway riding.
You can even make it through some hairy stuff with the 16T, if you're good
with the clutch. For general use, though, the 15T is a good compromise.
There is also a 13T available, although chain wear tends to increase as
you decrease the sprocket size. 16T is the largest that will fit.
Are aftermarket rear sprockets available?
Yes, but the factory Kawasaki part seems to be the most durable by
far. The price is also reasonable.
How do I mount the countershaft sprocket?
On '96+ bikes, the flat side of the OEM sprocket goes in, towards the
engine. On earlier bikes, the side with the flat surface for the
retainer goes out. With aftermarket sprockets, the numbers are usually
mounted
outside, but people have done it the other way.
Are countershaft sprockets interchangeable?
Here's the skinny:
Why is oil dripping from the countershaft sprocket cover?
This can go two ways: If you're lucky, it's just chain lube that got
flung off onto the cover and is dripping out. If you're not lucky,
you got an overtightened chain, and the countershaft seal is shot.
This seal is under pressure, so you can lose oil quickly if it goes.
It's not too hard to replace, if you want to do it yourself. You
can either drive a sheet metal screw into either side of the seal and pull
it out, or remove the sprocket, start the engine and put it in gear.
The oil pressure will drive out the seal, so be ready! There is an
O-ring behind the seal, but don't pull it off unless you have a new one.
When driving on the new seal, be aware that the case does NOT have a shoulder.
Don't overdrive the seal; stop when it becomes flush with the case.
What kind of chain can I use?
Any quality, O-ring or X-ring chain should be fine, for example the
DID 520 VM gold. The manual states that the chain must be an endless
type; however, most people run a clip-type master with no problems.
The size is 520 x 106 links.
How do I install the master link?
For a riveted master, you will need a rivet tool, which runs around
$100. For a clip-on link, you should use a side plate press (around
$30) to seat the side plate. The side plate on a clip-on master link
is designed to be a press-fit, and should only be used once. It should
only be pressed far enough to get the clip on, and then should be backed
out against the clip. An alternative to the press is to alternate
pins with a small C-clamp and washers to allow the pin to come through.
What should I use to lube my chain?
WD-40
90W gear oil
Aftermarket lube for O-ring chains
What is the proper chain slack?
There should be 2" of play (pushing up and down) center-to-center,
midway between the sprockets. The ultimate test is to compress the
rear suspension as much as possible (ideally, engine output shaft, swingarm
pivot and rear axle in a straight line), and see if the chain gets too
tight.
Where did my chain adjuster/swingarm cap go?
If you don't thoroughly counter-tighten the nuts on the swingarm caps,
they can work themselves off, and you will lose the cap. If the axle
is tight, this is not an immediate problem, and can be temporarily fixed
with fender washers.
How do I replace the countershaft sprocket?
What tires should I use?
The standard KLR sizes are 90/90-21 front and 130/80-17 rear.
3.00x21 and 3.25x21 will also work for the front, and 5.10x17 for the rear.
Use of other sizes may cause interference, so be careful.
How do I keep my new tire from rubbing on the chain guard?
The chain guard is only held on by a stamped sheet metal bracket.
Just bend it out of the way.
What are the correct tube sizes?
The standard tube sizes are 2.75/3.00-21 in the front, and 4.00/5.10-17
in the rear. Ultra-heavy-duty tubes are available for both the front
and rear. A heavy-duty 18" will work in the rear.
Do I need to carry two spare tubes?
For lightweight packing, a front tube will work in the rear tire for
limited distances. You should inflate it to the maximum tire pressure,
and change it once you get out of the boonies. You should be able
to get 100 miles out of it. If you're going on a longer trip/adventure
tour, you may want to carry both sizes to save yourself the trouble
of changing the tube twice.
What size are the axle nut cotter pins?
The stock size is 4.0x35 mm, but you should be able to use 1/8
or 5/32x2" pins.
Why can't I tighten my rear axle completely?
See "Rear hub bearing spacer" in the Known Issues
section.
Wheel bearings
Try to find quality bearings, such as Fafnir, Torrington or Ingersoll-Rand.
SKF bearings are less expensive, and are reportedly strong as well.
For SKF bearings, the suffix -2RS indicates double rubber shields (the
ones you want) and -ZZ are metal shielded. The bearings are pressed,
so freezing them will make them easier to install. Also remember
to remove the retaining rings before taking the old ones out.
Axle nuts:
Front: Nut, 22 mm; axle head, 17 mm.
Rear: Nut, 24 mm; axle head, 19 mm.
Spoke nipples:
6mm.
How do I adjust the rebound damping on the rear shock?
There is a little crescent-shaped black plastic cover over the rebound
adjuster at the bottom right side of the rear shock. You have to pull that
off to see the adjust thumbwheel. It's p/n 11012 CAP, SHOCK ABSORBER in
the Kawasaki parts diagrams. It's not really obvious when you first
look for it. Note that it only should be turned in one direction.
How much air pressure should I use in the forks?
The forks will allow some amount of preload air pressure, but are designed
for atmospheric, and this is best because it minimizes loads on the seals.
In fact, you might get a plusher ride if you sit on the bike, and then
vent the forks through the valves. If you need preload in the front,
it is best to put additional spacers over the springs.
What are the stats on the stock spring?
The stock spring is about 56mm/2.2" ID, 254mm/10" long, and the spring
rate has been measured at 5.3 kg/300 lb. NOTE: Although the stock
spring is 10" long, the shock appears to be built for a 9" spring.
That is, installing the stock 10" spring puts an inch of preload on it,
which is quite a bit. The consensus is that you are better off with
a stiffer, shorter spring. A rate of 450 lbs/inch seems to be ballpark
for riders of 180-200 lbs, and 500 or 550 for heavier riders.
However, you might want to consult a suspension specialist (or the list)
for suggestions on your specific weight and riding style. The proper
diameter is 2.25".
How much preload should I set on the rear?
The rear suspension should compress about 3" from the combined weight
of you and the bike. First, tilt the bike onto the side stand to
top out the rear suspension, and have someone measure the distance from
the rear axle to some point directly above it. Then, get on the bike,
balance it upright, and only put one foot lightly on the floor to keep
it balanced. Have your friend measure the distance again, and the
difference between the two measurements is the sag. Adjust the preload
as required to get 3" of sag. Note: When riding on your typical
terrain, if you don't bottom the suspension out once and a while, you probably
have it set too stiff.
Does the rear shock need any maintenance?
The preload adjuster gears are small and fairly fragile. If you're
frequently adjusting your preload, you should clean and lubricate the gears.
Insert the spray tube from a can of WD-40 into the small holes around the
top of the shock to flush and lube the gear mechanism.
What bearings are used for the rear suspension?
The rear suspension rquires the following Koyo bearings or equivalent:
Do I need to keep this tube in the oil filter?
The metal tube in the center of the oil filter is a high-pressure bypass
for cold oil. If you remove it, your oil will not get filtered.
Occasionally, mechanics accidentally discard this tube with the filter.
Make sure you have one. If you're changing your own oil, the tube
only fits in the engine case one way.
What if I break/strip out my footpeg bolts?
Some of the more aggressive riders have managed to break or pull out
their footpeg bolts. The simplest solution seems to be to convert
the footpegs to M10 bolts; drill out the footpeg bracket, and drill and
tap the mount. (The tap drill for M10x1.5 is 8.4mm or Q.)
What replacement spark plugs can I use?
Standard spark plug replacements are either the NGK DPR8EA-9
or ND (NipponDenso) X24EPR-U9. For Iridium, there is the NGK DPR8EIX-9.
You can also use a Champion 809(RA6HC), which is available with a
5/8" hex so you can use commonly available spark plug sockets.
The Autolite 4163 and MP4163 (premium) are also choices. Gap is 0.032-0.036"
(0.8-0.9 mm), torque to 10 ft-lbs (14 N-m).
How do I adjust the valves?
Valves are shim-over-bucket type, meaning you have to use different
thickness shims to obtain the desired clearance. Proper clearances
are 0.10-0.20 mm intake, 0.15-0.25 mm exhaust. A video describing
the valve adjustment process is available from Arrowhead Motorsports.
See also the links section for on-line tutorials
and shim calculation software.
What is the fastening torque for the XXXX bolt?
All numbers are ft-lbs unless indicated. Note that torque values
should be hit while the bolt is turning, to avoid static friction discrepancies.
Engine mount bolts, 8mm: 18.0
Engine mount bolts, 10mm: 33
All swingarm linkage, lower shock: 72
Rear shock, upper: 43
Triple clamp bolts: 18
Handlebar clamp: 17.5
Spark plug: 10.0
Front axle: 58
Rear axle: 69
Engine sprocket, old style: 87 in-lb
Engine sprocket, new style: 70
Rear sprocket nuts: 24
Rear subframe: 18.0
Magneto: 130
Why do I get such a low reading when I try to do a compression test?
The KLR has the Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release (KACR).
At low rpms (<600), this device keeps one of the exhaust valves cracked
open for easier starting. This will prevent you from reading the
full compression in the cylinder.
Which tool to I use to remove the magneto?
The magneto puller listed by Motion Pro is NOT the correct one
for the KLR (although they are beginning to rectify this). The proper
unit is M22x1.5. K&N also makes an M22x1.5 magneto puller (p/n
82-0170), but does not list it for the KLR. When using the magneto
puller, put anti-seize compound on the threads and nose, and tap it with
a mallet as you tighten it.
Where can I get better footpegs?
The stock KLR pegs are good for the road, but get very slippery offroad
when wet or muddy. There are a few options for replacements:
Can I protect the oil drain plug?
The drain plug sticks out past many skid plates. Dual Star makes
a low-profile version, and you can buy a Moose magnetic plug and trim off
some of the hex. There is also the Greenline
73000H-12.
How do I reduce high-speed wobble?
There are several things you can try: